On the morning of December 1, 2023, anchored in Fortuna Bay at 54°09.012’S / 036°48.011’W, we awoke to the invigorating embrace of crisp, sunny skies. Despite a cold breeze sweeping across the water, the conditions proved ideal for a landing at Whistle Cove, a quintessential South Georgia beach. The landscape was adorned with fur seals claiming their territory, initially determined to hold their ground but eventually permitting us to traverse the beach like an obstacle course, but the expedition team guided us safely, marking the route with poles until we reached the glacial plain.

Upon reaching the lush grass of the glacial plain, a serene scene unfolded with elephant and fur seals basking peacefully in the sun. King penguins rested and molted in the small streams and pools, while others marched rhythmically to and from the colony. The journey took us up a gentle slope along streams and past enchanting waterfalls. The sounds of thousands of penguins greeted us as we approached the colony, preceding the breathtaking sight of the multitude of birds.

Chirping chicks darted around, seeking nourishment, with those near fledging appearing three times the size of the adults. These round and brown fluffy birds, whimsically named "Oakum Boys" by whalers who initially mistook them for a different penguin species, were tended to by adults or found resting. Up at the sheltered colony, the wind was gentler, and the weather embraced us with warmth—a perfect South Georgia morning.